Re: (RL) The production

[KWood@lightbridge.com]

The POD gives you a lot to experiment with, but not specifically wattage or
tube-types, although that's clearly the level of detail towards which all
the digital simulation stuff is heading.  The two amp (with a a/b switch?)
approach sounds like a good one so long as you have a conscientious
soundperson to get the levels right for the listeners.  I'll wager that the
next wave of digital amp simulators will include all sorts of 'crappy
little' amp sims for some good speaker-shredding bedroom amplifier sounds!

There are some good reviews out there on the Fender Cybertwin.  I heard
raves about it in a magazine but they said it fell a little short on the
Marshall-style thundercrunch.  Apparently it more than makes up for it with
the ability to really accurately model the entire Fender lineup.

One thing that bothers me in my limited (POD) experience with digital amp
sims is the fact that they don't interface well with outboard effects.  A
wah-pedal going into (or coming out of) a POD does not really sound like a
wah.  It kind of turns into a digital mush, breaking the spell of the
simulation quite effectively!  Same with a RAT pedal or anything else I've
tried.  I don't know if this is the case with the higher-end digital
combos...anyone?

-kent





"Per RosÚn" <per_m_rosen@hotmail.com> on 07/13/2001 10:47:32 AM

Please respond to matters@richardlloyd.com

To:   matters@richardlloyd.com
cc:    (bcc: Kent Wood/Lightbridge)
Subject:  Re: (RL) The production



The only solution to that is two amps I'm afraid. One small (15w?)to crank
connected to a bigger cabinet and another for the TV-like cleaner sound,
maybe a VOX or Fender. If you're pleased with preamp distortion or dist
boxes you don't need it, but if you want the main amp (the right english
word? the effect amp inside?) to really work you need a smaller amp to
crank
to get a good balance together with the clean one. I never tried with two,
but it would be interesting to compare it to modern programmable amps. (For
ex Line6 and that new expensive Fender.) I don't think you can program the
amount of watts or tubes or different kind of tubes, or can you?


>From: KWood@lightbridge.com
>Reply-To: matters@richardlloyd.com
>To: matters@richardlloyd.com
>Subject: Re: (RL) The production
>Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 10:15:54 -0400
>
>
>I've *always* had trouble finding a good clean sound as well.  Almost any
>amp, properly motivated ; ), will give one sort or another of a great lead
>or rhythm crunch, but too often those same amps sound plunky and thin the
>moment you go clean.  Fender by far has the clean sound with the most
>fullness and personality ('soft, floating' is an excellent description!),
>but beyond that, it really seems to be the one place where the guitar and
>pickups (and the player) make it or break it.
>
>
>
>
>
>"Per Ros?n" <per_m_rosen@hotmail.com> on 07/13/2001 06:26:52 AM
>
>Please respond to matters@richardlloyd.com
>
>To:   matters@richardlloyd.com
>cc:    (bcc: Kent Wood/Lightbridge)
>Subject:  Re: (RL) The production
>
>
>
>Thanks Maurice!
>I already have a power attenuator. It's built into the Marshall speaker
>emulator I bought some years ago. The problem with an attenuator is that
>the
>speakers will not work as on high volumes and you will still not get the
>same sound. But it may work on others equipments.
>But if your amp only has 8watts I think you can crank a lot. (Depends on
>your neighbours, of course.) I used to switch 50W Marshall to triod to get
>only 25W, but with a 4x12 it's still pretty loud. (But you get a fantastic
>overdrive sound.) On gigs everyone was complaining 'bout my level, most of
>all the soundman, but the Marshall speaker emulator helped me there,
though
>a compromise to make them all a little happier. I left the 4x12 at home
and
>used the built in speaker in the Marshall combo just as a monitor, and I
>could turn the level down on stage with the attenuator. The speaker sound
>in
>the PA was emulated and lined and sounded pretty good. A good solution for
>small places.
>This was a few years ago. A party some metal kids held in our rehearsing
>place resulted in my both Marshalls in need for reparation/service. And I
>still havn't done that. Too lazy, havn't been playing that much. My
>temporary solution is a Sans Amp box working as a complete amp going into
a
>Twin reverb set on volume 2. Gets a very fat, good and not too loud
>overdrive sound, though the clean sound sucks. (To be honest I've never
>been
>able to find the right clean sound on my stuff. Thuogh my friend found a
>cheap Fender Bandmaster top ,silver face, and it has that rectifier tube
>that gives you that fantastic soft, floating Fender sound.)
>
>/Per
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >From: Maurice Rickard <maurice@mauricerickard.com>
> >Reply-To: matters@richardlloyd.com
> >To: matters@richardlloyd.com
> >Subject: Re: (RL) The production
> >Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 13:38:08 -0700
> >
> >At 3:29 PM +0000 7/12/01, Per Ros?n wrote:
> >>It would be great to know about for ex the 8" cabinet. To be able to
> >>play a little quieter. I need to crank the amp (master volume) to
> >>get the overdrive sound, I hate so called preamp-distortion.
> >>Only my own experiences. It would be interesting to know about
> >>yours, and Richards'.
> >
> >I can answer for myself that I finally "found" my guitar sound with a
> >Kalamazoo Model Two amp (tube, ~8 watts, 10" speaker, tremelo).  When
> >cranked, it sounded great with my single-coil guitar for rhythm;
> >sounded a bit blatty on chords from the humbucker, but great on leads.
> >
> >Since it's a pretty tiny amp (1 6bq5 power tube), it was easy enough
> >for me to put in an attenuator--I didn't have to worry about
> >dissipating a lot of heat.
> >
> >I put in an 8 ohm, 10 watt rheostat after the output transformer so I
> >could turn the amp all the way up and turn the speaker output down.
> >It's important how you wire it--you need to present a constant load
> >to the output transformer, or else very bad things happen (arcing
> >inside the transformer and tubes, for example).  I picked up the
> >basic schematic from an old (1954) audio handbook.  If you're
> >interested, I can scan the diagram, or whip it up in ASCII.
> >(Disclaimer: I'm not responsible for damage done to amps on the basis
> >of ASCII art.)
> >
> >There are some arguments that since a speaker presents a variable
> >load at different frequencies, you need an attenuator to do the same,
> >and a passive resistor (like my rheostat) doesn't do that.
> >Supposedly, this changes the tone of the amp at low volumes.  It may
> >be so, and I'd definitely not want to do this to a louder amp (way
> >too much heat to get rid of), but I found that I quite liked the tone
> >of my Kalamazoo with this arrangement.  Your mileage may vary, of
> >course.
> >
> >HTH,
> >Maurice
> >
> >--
> >Maurice Rickard
> >http://mauricerickard.com/
> >--------------
> >To post: Mail matters@richardlloyd.com
> >To unsubscribe: Mail majordomo@richardlloyd.com with the
> >message "unsubscribe matters"
>
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